Balinese Food Guide: Babi Guling, Lawar and Ayam Betutu

The Balinese dishes worth seeking out, what goes into them, where the official tourism site suggests trying them, and which ones are pork-free.

Food & Drink

Sebaraya Travel – A common mistake in Bali is eating only nasi goreng and pizza in the tourist strips, then leaving without trying the island’s own cooking. Balinese food has a distinct set of dishes, many built on a spice paste called base genep.

This guide covers the dishes Indonesia’s official tourism site highlights for Bali, what is in them, and which ones to skip if you avoid pork. It is a starting list, not a ranking.

Babi Guling: Spit-Roasted Pig

Babi guling is a whole pig stuffed with traditional spices and spit-roasted until the skin turns crisp. It is served with a spicy sambal.

Plate of nasi babi guling with crackling, lawar and rice
A plate of nasi babi guling/Photo: kudumomo/Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

The official tourism site names Ibu Oka in Ubud and Babi Guling Karya Rebo in Kedonganan among places to try it. Babi guling is pork, so it is not suitable for Muslim or other pork-free diets.

Lawar: The Ceremonial Mix

Lawar is a mix of finely chopped vegetables, coconut, minced meat and spices. It is often served at ceremonies.

The official site points to local nasi campur stalls for lawar, so you may meet it on a mixed plate without ordering it by name. Because the meat can vary, ask what is in it before you eat if you have dietary limits.

Ayam Betutu: Slow-Cooked Chicken

Ayam betutu is chicken coated in base genep and slow-cooked for hours until tender. It is the dish to choose if you want Balinese spice without pork.

Ayam Betutu Khas Gilimanuk and Ayam Betutu Liku are the places named for it on the official site. Expect a strong, spicy paste rather than a mild sauce.

Sate Lilit and Other Savoury Dishes

Sate lilit is minced fish, or sometimes chicken, mixed with grated coconut and lime juice, wrapped around lemongrass stalks and grilled. Beachside warungs in Sanur are among the places suggested for it.

Sate lilit wrapped around lemongrass sticks
Sate lilit on lemongrass sticks/Photo: Niek van Son/Flickr (CC BY 2.0)
DishWhat it isPork?
Tum ayamMinced chicken and spices steamed in banana leafNo
Rujak bulungSeaweed with fish broth and chiliNo
Nasi tepengSoft rice with spicy gravy and chicken, a Gianyar specialityNo
Tipat cantokRice cakes and vegetables in peanut sauceNo

The “Pork?” column reflects the main ingredients in the official descriptions. Kitchens vary, so ask if it matters to you.

Two Sweet Dishes

Bubur injin is black glutinous rice sweetened with palm sugar and topped with salted coconut cream. Jaje laklak are small green rice-flour pancakes served with grated coconut and liquid palm sugar.

Laklak is linked to traditional morning markets, so go early if you want to find it fresh.

Ordering if You Avoid Pork

Bali is mainly Hindu, and pork is common in its traditional cooking. Ask “ada babi?” (is there pork?) when a dish’s contents are unclear.

Ayam betutu, sate lilit made with fish, tum ayam and tipat cantok are the easiest pork-free choices from this list. Is lawar ever pork-free? Sometimes, but the meat varies, so confirm with the cook.

Pick one dish from each section of this guide, and you will have tasted most of what makes Balinese cooking different.

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